This scent is like a woman’s pantsuit from the eighties: extravagant, timeless, and effortlessly gallant. This is a power bomb of aldehydes, civet, and vetiver; trademark ingredients from the golden age of perfumes. I was a little apprehensive about this fragrance, it’s certainly a statement piece with an extremely loud presence and great endurance, however I feel Must can also come off as slightly cold and intimidating.
On my skin this is a heavy composition of galbanum, woods, and aldehydes. Must phases out into a vetiver and sandalwood base with dry downs of carnation and supple leather. I can detect mild notes of civet but it isn’t overwhelming; I don’t pick up any roses, jasmine, or pineapple unfortunately. The dry down is a bit lackluster with mostly amber, aldehydes, and sandalwood. This is not a safe blind buy, like most fragrances from that time period, Must veers heavily into the “masculine” territory.
Personally I have yet to find a vintage chypre that doesn’t remind me of damp rotting earth; Must is actually quite enjoyable and one of the only eighties fragrances that I can stand. This is a power house, with the first application being strong enough to command the attention of a small village, and the longevity is incredible.
Overall I can see why this was a classic for over 30 years, it’s a legendary scent meant for the most sophisticated and powerful woman.
Longevity: 8/10 Sillage: 9/10