Natori / Natori

26 Nov

I unexpectedly came into possession of this fragrance thanks to a blind swap I did about 2 months ago. I immediately bought an entire bottle after testing it on myself, and oh my gosh this is the sweetest salted plum scent that I have ever experienced. It literally smells like the plum sodas I had as a kid in Hong Kong; it’s opulent and gourmand, extremely feminine while maintaining a sense of complexity and wholesomeness.

Natori feels mysterious in every way; it’s a seductively dark and smoky cocktail. I am not usually a fan of plum notes but this deeply multifarious in nature; the amber is warm and inviting, the roses do not play center stage but provides a floral edge that underlies the plum very well.  My favorite part about this dry down is the ylang-ylang, musk, and patchouli combo; it brings out a kind of earthiness that is reminiscent of Chinese tea shops. But this isn’t to say that Natori is completely oriental, it’s actually quite versatile, the aldehydes are heavy hitters but somehow this doesn’t come off as being overpowering.  Natori feels very vintage, I am much more infatuated with this one than I am of Opium- and no this doesn’t really smell like Opium at all- they’re both gorgeous but Natori is definitely more wearable. Plus the bottle is beautifully crafted, the lid is heavy like a stone; it feels oddly reassuring.

The only drawback is the sillage/longevity, what a major disappointment! This essentially becomes a skin scent after merely an hour, which is a shame because Natori feels like it was crafted as a statement piece. I can’t help but feel powerful and formidable while wearing it, but alas my spirits are short lived; this beauty was probably another unfortunate victim of reformulation. Overall an elegant evening perfume that is both mature and feminine; a worthy purchase despite its minor shortcomings.


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Sublime / Ulric de Varens

23 Nov

This is a quick review of Ulric de Varens; this is a fantastic fragrance that smells almost identical to Pour Femme by Dolce and Gabbana. I literally could not tell the difference testing them side by side at first; Pour Femme feels a little more sugary and wholesome but UdV is softer and not as intense. The only difference I’ve perceived between these two were the missing raspberry notes in UdV, but this is a very subtle nuance and it’s hardly worth mentioning. The important variables are the marshmallow and vanilla creaminess that imparts a feeling of warmth and comfort every time I wear Pour Femme, and that reminiscence is evenly matched by its replica. This is an uncomplicated love affair between fluffy candy and silky cream, total gourmand bliss!

The downside to Ulric De Varens is clearly the projection and longevity, it’s almost nonexistent. This would be better categorized as a body mist rather than a perfume, I could literally bathe in it and the fragrance would evaporate an hour later. On a positive note this bottle is relatively cheap and easily obtainable, so you can reapply obsessively throughout the day. Overall a great budget alternative if you’re absolutely fanatical about marshmallow fragrances like I am!


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Truth or Dare / Madonna

23 Nov

I won’t lie, for a department store fragrance Truth or Dare is surprisingly high end; I’m usually not a big fan of white florals but when done correctly it conjures up feelings of simplicity and tranquility.  This is surprisingly elegant, with a smooth composition that effortlessly flows within its own rhythm. It feels clean and fresh while maintaining a feminine presence; this is what a white dress smells like in my imagination.

ToD is a minimalist fragrance, the notes are fairly straightforward and you can pretty much pick out each floral in this composition. My initial reaction was a pleasant surprise at the balance of tuberose and gardenia; it is neither pungent nor too sharp but blended just perfectly to produce a scent of fresh white blossoms. Jasmine becomes more prominent during the dry down, with a hint of benzoin and amber to give this bouquet a warm sunny disposition. Sillage is moderate with good longevity (3-5 hours).

ToD feels extremely optimistic; I can honestly say that this perfume has the ability to brighten up my day every time I wear it. Even though this is a very basic fragrance, its simplicity is neither a shortcoming nor a limitation. This is a great introduction to white florals and a safe blind buy in my opinion.


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Angel Garden Of Stars / Thierry Mugler

23 Nov

There must be something wrong with me- I have never been a fan of Angel, in fact the only flanker I actually enjoyed was Angel Sucree, yet even then it was a passing interest. Garden of Stars is very similar to the original formulation, except the patchouli and roses seemed to have been injected with steroids.

This opens up with a blast of patchouli, followed by soft roses and a bitter chocolate. It starts off very sharp at first and intensely fruity- there is a cloying sweet note that makes me a little sick to my stomach. I had hoped something would eventually alleviate the heavy patchouli and pepper but I was disappointed to find that it didn’t change much throughout the day. I normally love patchouli fragrances but this one has been formulated with a heavy hand, it’s a little too “earthy” for me. Strangely I did not pick up any vanilla; hints of bergamot become more evident throughout the dry down. Sillage is heavy with this perfume, and longevity is pretty good (about 3-5 hours).

Overall I am not a fan of this line, I feel like Thierry Mugler makes some amazing power house fragrances, and they are all unique in their own way. But in my experience, most of his creations are either hit or miss. If you’re a major fan of the original Angel you’ll probably enjoy Garden of Stars; however if you hated the former, then its flanker is really nothing new.


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Lolita Lempicka / Lolita Lempicka

3 Nov

Lolita Lempicka is mysterious and a little melancholic, it’s seductive and magical like a dark forest filled with the most enchanting creatures. This perfume is alluring and sensual but also feels a little virginal and innocent. This is a fairy tale romance, one that feels like a dream within a dream.

Opening notes are heavy with creamy licorice and spicy anise; violet is the most apparent floral in the primary stages and blends beautifully with the vanilla and cherry. I love tonka bean combined with licorice and praline notes as it gives this fragrance that uniquely “magical” essence that I can’t find in any other perfume. The best part comes after half an hour, the spiciness soothes down to a more subtle level with vanilla being the primary player, you can finally sense a little iris, musk and vetiver; combined they make a gorgeous powdery dry down. Unfortunately longevity is moderate and sillage is not very good. If you over apply however, I find that the heavy licorice and spices will make you mildly nauseous.

I absolutely adore Lolita, there is definitely a mystical/fantasy vibe to this fragrance. Although there are mature elements I cannot see myself wearing this seriously; it feels like something a Disney princess would wear and that is just not me. The most I’ll get from Lolita will be nostalgic longings for my childhood watching cartoons while waiting for my parents to pick me up from school, other than that it really doesn’t suit my personality. Overall a great scent for those seeking an escape from an ordinary world. ♥


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Paris / Yves Saint Laurent

2 Nov

Paris is a musky rose that is both glamorous and old fashioned- in the best sense of the word. This feels like a vintage rose, the kind of flower you associate whilst growing up surrounded by sophisticated and charming women. This isn’t a mainstream floral, you won’t find the sweet innocent sexy girl in this one; Paris is meant for the regal woman. It took many tries before I got used to it but once the scene was set, there was no turning back. I felt so glamourous with Paris, so chic and classy while channeling the Hollywood Diva from within.

I own the EDP version and it is very floral heavy, you can sense every single flower that went into the making of this perfume. Rose is clearly the primary player here, along with heaping violets, and hyacinth. Iris, orris root, and musk combined with oakmoss turns this into a heavy powdery base, which becomes more prominent with the dry down. I pick up an earthy almost musty note somewhere between the viscous florals; it is very prominent and reminds me of a woman’s boudoir- full of makeup powder and lacey undergarments.

When I first encountered Paris I was instantly reminded of L’Heure Bleue by Guerlain, in fact this would have strong similarities to Bleue if it weren’t for the roses!  Paris feels like a Victorian gal’s fragrance: sensual but not overtly sexy, mature but never pretentious, witty and always impeccably coifed. She’s an aristocratic lady, who always gets what she wants.

That being said I wouldn’t apply too liberally, this perfume can easily become migraine-inducing and the muskiness becomes way too much for my nose. Projection is incredible, one spray lasts for hours and the fumes kept coming even after I showered. Longevity on my skin is so extensive that I lost count. Let’s just say that it will last you until the next day. Overall a very wonderful fragrance that is unconventionally stylish and timelessly sophisticated.


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Michael Kors / Michael Kors

31 Oct

I originally was going to wear Michael Kors for an evening out with friends, until I accidently spilled a 1.5 oz bottle on my dress. Even after a change of clothing, the perfume remains cloyingly against my skin and there it stayed haunting me throughout the day.
This fragrance to me is reminiscent of over-ripened fruit, too domineering without much restraint. The tuberose and lily are excessively pungent and concocted with a heavy hand; together they completely drown out all other notes, except maybe the osmanthus. This comes off very screechy on my skin, and makes me feel a little nauseated after a few hours.  For a white floral Michael Kors is unusually heavy and peppery; I detect no incense- just raw and creamy flowers.

The dry down smells like synthetic banana candy, like the ones you buy in those quarter machines, it’s sickeningly sweet and feels extremely processed. The projection is huge, with decent longevity; you will have to apply with a soft hand because the tuberose can easily overwhelm and become a bit unsettling after an hour.

Perhaps I am a little biased because I dislike tuberose in general, but they have never agreed with me. This is one of those fragrances that will never see the light of day in my wardrobe. Overall a great bargain if you’re a white floral lover but avoid if you can’t handle heavy scents.


 

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Stella / Tocca

30 Oct

This is my first experience with blood orange, and I’m pleasantly surprised at how comforting this is to my senses. Immediate first impressions are of an aquatic nature; there’s definitely a note reminiscent of cool and refreshing waters, immediately followed by orange citrus…the floral notes (lilies and freesia) kick in to prevent this pairing from becoming too sharp/sour. After five minutes the dry down beckons with drifts of sandalwood, oranges and orchid…very clean and fresh. I am not usually a fan of citrus/bright accords but this one is soft enough that it doesn’t appear overly synthetic.

My only issue with Stella is that it is a bit too “safe”; although the makeup is unique, it doesn’t provide much pizazz other than the first 15 minutes of fizzy orange soda goodness.  I feel like there is so much potential here, yet it falls flat much too soon with its most promising aspects fading away too quickly. I felt like Stella could have done well with a bit of vitality to her, perhaps more potency…it feels watered down, special qualities withering away like forgotten memories. Longevity is almost non-existent, departing almost as fast as it arrived. Sillage is very soft, no projection for such a unique personality.

Overall a pleasant fragrance, but its charm is much too fleeting to be fully appreciated.


 

Top Notes

Blood Orange  /Bitter Orange / Watery Notes

Middle Notes

Freesia/ Lily / Orchid

Base Notes

Sandalwood / Musk

Indian Night Jasmine / The Body Shop

30 Oct

This is absolutely the most perfect night jasmine I have ever smelled: clean, mysterious, simple yet multifaceted. This is a gorgeous floral bouquet of endless beauty; as intoxicating as it is alluring, a conjuring of all the most beautiful flowers in their best evening dress.

Notes are simple: Jasmine on top, followed by sandalwood, orange blossom, and violets to round out the base. Every ingredient plays its part like an ode to the night; the sandalwood is the vital player here -transforming this fragrance into a balsamic blend of spicy oriental goodness. I get vibes of Thierry Mugler’s Alien but this is a much tamer, more sophisticated relative. Whereas Alien is loud and sassy, INJ is timid, mysterious and extremely charismatic; I didn’t know jasmine can be this pretty, silly me!

Overall I feel Indian Night Jasmine would be a perfect rainy day fragrance: the creamy and spicy notes seem to play very well against humidity, which helps to bring out the white florals in this perfume. The only downside to this is the longevity, which only lasts a little over an hour on my skin; sillage is also very poor, making this a great body mist after a night shower.  A great beginner oriental.


 

Fragrance Notes

Jasmine/ Orange Blossom/ Violet Leaf / Sandalwood

Poudree / Narciso Rodriguez

15 Oct

It’s no secret that I am a huge fan of powdery fragrances, and Poudree performs exactly how I would imagine a feminine pink musky perfume to smell like. This opens up with a powerfully intoxicating blend of jasmine and roses; it’s powdery and clean without being too dusty or “mature”.

At its heart Poudree smells a little like Victorian deodorant, the woody notes elevate the roses so that it isn’t overwhelmingly sweet. This is a much more feminine sister to Narciso Rodriguez’s Narciso, whereas Narciso is more of the down to earth child…Poudree is sassier, flirtier, and is coming to terms with her own sexuality.

This is still a very tame fragrance in my opinion, it isn’t sexy – but a little more timid, almost virginal if that is even possible to describe such a scent. The vetiver and orange blossom gives this perfume an almost “spicy incense” note but it’s very faint; the patchouli isn’t overwhelming here but rather plays its part subtly in the background.

Poudree is more of a “skin” scent, the sillage is rather poor but longevity is pretty good. I feel like it’s better as a “before bed time” fragrance, when you’re cuddling with your significant other and they can smell this on your body. It’s clean and musky but in a natural way, this doesn’t feel synthetic at all.

The dry down is a bit of a disappointment, there is a distinct note of something resembling play-doh which sometimes happen when the rose and musk doesn’t blend very nicely with my body chemistry. Of course this isn’t something that can be helped as everybody’s skin is different.

Overall another great multifaceted concoction from the house of Narciso Rodriguez, if you love powdery fragrances you should definitely give this a try.


Top Notes

Rose /Jasmine /Orange Blossom

Middle Notes

Musk

Base Notes

Vetiver /Cedar /Coumarin/ Patchouli