Category Archives: Perfume

Agent Provocateur / Agent Provocateur

12 Oct

Oh my goodness do I love you Agent Provacateur. You are love at first sniff; a beautiful stranger, an alluring beast…a master of disguise. You are a queen and a princess, a lover and a heartbreaker; too beautiful to control and too wild to love.

This is one of the most gorgeous florals I’ve ever had the pleasure to experience; it’s definitely an oriental rose- thanks to the saffron notes in its composition. Some of the reviews distinctively say this feels like a “vintage perfume” and I totally agree; it’s classic but not mature at all- youthful but not restrictive to any age group.

Agent Provacateur reminds me of my travels in India; every morning the market stalls near my apartment will be decorated with garlands of flowers and rose water…with women setting up sticks of incense on the little altars that sometimes line the streets. That’s what this perfume reminds me of: gorgeous oriental roses with a little spice and saffron. The dry down is a little musky with mostly roses and hints of jasmine, I don’t sense the amber in this but I do notice the vetiver.

This is a “wet” roses scent, fresh morning buds with little dew drops on its delicate red lips; it’s an optimistic floral full of happiness and confidence. I will say that this is unexpectedly the rose that I have been searching for all my life; it is reminiscent of the blossoming of youth, innocence, and sincerity. It is, in my opinion – the reason why roses are the queen of all flowers. I fall in love every day that I wear this.

 

Top Notes

Magnolia /Saffron

 

Middle Notes

Gardenia /Vetiver/ Rose/ Jasmine

 

Base Notes

Amber /Musk /Cedar

 

Boudoir / Vivienne Westwood

12 Oct

Thanks to a very dear friend of mine I was able to test out this much sought after fragrance by Vivienne Westwood.  This is Boudoir, an homage to the classy woman’s sacred space- very intimate and private just like the lady herself.

Based on reviews I wasn’t expecting much, however on first spritz I was pleasantly surprised. I immediately sensed aldehydes and lots of it; there’s a waxy creamy scent that reminds me of vintage fragrances like the original Chanel No5 and Passion by Elizabeth Taylor.  I’m very surprised that there is no musk here- the dry down has a particular starkness that could be attributed to the patchouli and tobacco leaf. I also do not sense any “rose” or “hyacinth”, only wafts of carnation and sandalwood which blends beautifully with the cardamom!

I will go out on a limb and say this is almost medicinal in texture, it’s “heavy” and overwhelming- but not obnoxious. I feel something a little maternal about this perfume, and I am not a fan of that. It doesn’t feel “sexy” to me, personally I get a little bored waiting for Boudoir to moonlight into something else a little more exciting or even mysterious. In its current state there’s no “stimulation” of the senses, no touch of sensuality or intrigue. Just a lady’s chamber with too much old make up and the stench of sweaty bodies; it really does smell like a bedroom after sex which makes this fragrance an interesting one to add to your collection. Boudoir is a great experience for me, I feel strangely self-aware when I have it on- like suddenly I am more intimate with myself in a purely philosophical way. Definitely one of a kind, but not something I would go out of my way to re-purchase.


Top Notes

Aldehydes /Orange Blossom/ Marigold/ Hiacynth /Bergamot

Middle Notes

Coriander/ Carnation /Orris Root/ Jasmine/ Rose /Cardamom /Narcissus

Base Notes

Sandalwood /Patchouli /Cinnamon /Vanilla /Tobacco Leaf

Alien / Thierry Mugler

11 Oct

When I first started my venture into the world of perfumes, the name Thierry Mugler got thrown around so often that the words “Alien” and “Angel” were synonymous with “must have”. So of course I had to order one for myself just to see =P

Alien was my first experience with the design house and it doesn’t disappoint, this is white floral heaven! The initial blast of jasmine instantly captures my attention; the woody notes that follow gives a slight peppery undertone that I absolutely love. The amber prevents this fragrance from being too overly sweet and gives it a very warm balsamic dry down.  I sense a little incense as the day wears on but the sweet jasmine still dominates overall; it feels like an exotic wildflower from a hot and humid jungle located in some foreign land.

Overall not so much “alien” but definitely an “oriental” vibe, a great day time scent and very safe for the office environment; the sillage is crazy strong – I can smell the fumes all day long. Longevity is quite moderate, and it’s interesting enough that you’ll never find yourself getting sick of it.

Plus the bottle is absolutely amazing; I feel like an Alien Goddess reaching for my daily dose of fuel before declaring massive war on an extraterrestrial neighbor!

 

Top Notes
Jasmine
 
Middle Notes
Woods
 
Base Notes
Amber

 

Asian Green Tea / Creed ♥ Green Tea / Elizabeth Arden

8 Oct

I’ve been on the search for an authentic “green tea” fragrance for the longest time, so today I went out of my way to acquire this bottle by Creed called Asian Green Tea. On the same note, I also purchased the uniquely popular Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden (for comparison).


First off, I am extremely picky regarding chypre fragrances, the combination of citrus and labdanum on a bed of oak moss has the potential to smell like synthetic floor wipes to my nose. And unfortunately this seems to be the case with GT; there’s something commercial about this fragrance…the citrus and mint are horribly sweetened and smells processed to boot.

This is a frag that I have smelled before; like being inside one of those retail stores such as Origins and The Bodyshop. It’s generally the same: start off fresh, and then settles into something sweet and Lysol-ish.

When I think of green tea I think of oriental tea leaves with a good balance of citrus and mint, it should be refreshing but not aggressive. So this takes me to Creed’s Asian Green Tea, which I LOVE. It is timid in nature, smells soothing, wholesome, and feels full-bodied. I never realized how musk can produce such an unusual accord when combined with tea and orange. The citrus notes felt subdued by the sandalwood and amber, with floral undertones to mask any sourness that might peek through.

Overall evocative of having a cup of tea while surrounded by spring flowers; AGT is clean and fresh without being in your face about it.

Creed perfumes in general are outrageously priced, but their sillage/longevity are amazing.   Personally if you are in the market for a tea fragrance, this one (in my opinion) takes the cake. However, if you’re not keen on Creed then Elizabeth Arden’s Green Tea may be a sensible substitute.

Asian Green Tea by Creed

Top Notes
Bergamot /Orange /Lemon /Neroli
 
Middle Notes
Violet/ Green Tea/ Heliotrope /Rose/ Black Currant
 
Base Notes
Sandalwood /Musk /Amber

 Green Tea by Elizabeth Arden
Top Notes
Rhubarb /Mint /Orange/ Bergamot /Lemon
 
Middle Notes
Carnation /Musk /Jasmine /Oakmoss /Amber/ Fennel
 
Base Notes
Caraway /Amber /Musk /Green Tea /Jasmine /Cloves /Oakmoss /Celery Seeds

Rose Couture / Elie Saab

8 Oct

If Ralph Lauren’s “Romance” and Valentino’s “Donna” got married, moved to the suburbs and had a baby it would be called “Rose Couture” by Elie Saab.  This perfume was one of those impulse buys that smelled great at the counter but was a regrettable experience when worn at home. Not that there is anything unpleasant about this fragrance, it is just too overwhelmingly sweet and too familiar to my nose, as if I’ve smelled hundreds before just like it.

RC feels like an inferior flanker (a branch-off of something extraordinary) in its current form, there are so many possibilities here but unfortunately that potential was never realized. For starters, the rose is obnoxiously flagrant – it seemed to have drowned out all the other notes. Heck I can barely detect the caramel and vanilla, where is the supposed litchi? Where is the sandalwood? This fragrance feels TOO safe, just your basic floral and some weaker notes stumbling offstage somewhere.

If you took Valentino’s Donna and stripped it of its lipstick scent, subdued the boozy vanilla and leather; if you took out the patchouli and watered it down with liquid candy…you would have Rose Couture.

The projection is strong, the longevity is moderate. The dry down is extremely bland; it smells like a weaker version of itself. Overall, a very generic floral that smells safe and unexceptional- possibly within the same category as La Vie Est Belle by Lancome.

If you are looking to smell like everyone else, Rose Couture would be the ideal candidate. However if you’re the kind who goes against the grain, consider skipping out on this flanker.

Top Notes
Rose /Peony /Orange Blossom /Bergamot
 
Middle Notes
Rose /Jasmine /Vanilla /Peach /Litchi
 
Base Notes
Patchouli /Sandalwood/ Caramel

 

Dark Obsession / Calvin Klein

7 Oct

It is a generally a rare circumstance when I encounter a fragrance that works so well with my skin chemistry and expresses so clearly all my peculiarities and confidences that when I do accidentally fall in love…I knew it had to be fate.

Due to the finicky nature of perfumes (scent association, environmental conditions, the individual’s own physical makeup), I strongly believe that it is the fragrance that picks the wearer not the other way around. How a scent behaves and the exhilarating feeling that follows is completely up to the ingredients and whether or not it will complement your body.

Some brands will play on my skin like a perfect orchestra, whereas others just sit there stubborn and unwilling.

A perfect example was when I first tried on Dark Obsession by Calvin Klein; this fragrance is just so darn good that I felt I have found the perfect scent for my fall collection. There is just so much going on here: a thick accord of espresso, chocolate, soft leather, and smoke.  This is a walk through dark mysterious woods with your jacket collar propped up against your ears, you see a tiny little house and enter it…a whiff of dark coffee, spices and tobacco assaults your senses…suddenly you are at home, safe…warm, comforting.

I sense so much of Tom Ford’s Tobacco & Vanille in this blend, the guarana and vanilla are so expertly synchronized that the appearance of suede and balsam firs appeared natural and expected. There is nothing here offensive or uninviting.

Overall a masterpiece in my mind; but like I have stated, this perfume is not for everyone. Hubby has tried on Dark Obsession and to my nose he does not project the same harmonious results that I fell in love with. The smell was off by a hair; that velvety blend got lost in a cocktail of scent fragments that never seemed to fit in anywhere; in fact some people find that there are no chocolates or coffee in this perfume at all.  I was disappointed but also relieved; I guess this will be my personal fragrance after all. =]

For the price and quality, I would recommend this one over Tobbaco & Vanille. It would be an adventure in gourmand heaven, and an unforgettable experience.

 

Top Notes
Mandarin/ Guarana/ Wormwood
 
Middle Notes
Clary Sage /Fir /Vetiver
 
Base Notes
Labdanum /Vanilla /Suede

Fragrance Notes – Civet (Cat)

5 Oct

So my favorite perfume of all time contains an important odor that is most discernible to my nose: Civet. It is a sticky oil that‘s secreted from the anal glands of Civet cats, which smells awfully similar to rat urine and rodent feces.

These cats live in various parts of the world including the forests of India and outlying countries like Vietnam, Malaysia and Nepal. The oil is a natural by-product used in famous fragrances like Shalimar, Chanel No5, Bois Santal by Creed, Obsession by Calvin Klein etc. It is an odor similar to musk but distinctively different, more palpable in my opinion.

Most civet oils are produced on farms in eastern Africa, where the precious liquids are collected weekly from caged animals. Civet is famous for its complex composition: putrid and foul when fresh. However, once diluted yields an animalic sweet substance that enhances and even altars the composition of other ingredients.

Today civet is mass produced in its synthetic form, which is easier to create and more environmentally friendly. If you want true civets in fragrances, look for any of the aforementioned fragrances in its vintage form (pre-1990s).

Daisy Dream / Marc Jacobs

1 Oct

I wasn’t a fan of the original Daisy but its flanker Daisy Dream is so fresh and pretty in a bottle. The sillage and longevity is close to nonexistent- evaporating within minutes on your skin- but for its brief encounter Dream gives a memorable performance, very girly, floral and youthful.

It was also my first experience with litchi and wisteria, and I must say that I love it! When wearing this I imagine little girls picking wild flowers in a meadow…with garlands in their hair and pretty little white dresses.

This fruity cocktail starts off with a mist of blackberry and grapefruit, followed by a sweetness of wisteria and litchi. I didn’t detect the jasmine until the dry down; coconut and woods were not apparent.

If Daisy was considered sunshine in a bottle, then its sister Dream would be clouds decanted. Overall a very happy green scent, great for the spring or summer; this fragrance has potential for the office woman, but considering its markup and low sillage…you would better suited with something of more value.

 

Top Notes
Blackberry /Grapefruit /Pear
 
Middle Notes
Wisteria /Jasmine /Litchi
 
Base Notes
Woods/ Musk/ Coconut

 

Pour Femme / Dolce & Gabbana

30 Sep

Continuing with this week’s theme I was able to wrap my fingers around this gorgeous fragrance by Dolce & Gabbana, once again a food scent that is warm and inviting but not sickeningly sweet. Marshmallow is the primary player here but it will not function alone, this is a combination of cotton candy and creamy vanilla with lots of citrus.

Upon first spritz I immediately recognized the marshmallows, raspberry and orange. I love raspberry but combined with candy it is overwhelmingly sweet, luckily the sandalwood and citrus kicked in to give it a little balance. However the dry down was mostly vanilla-marshmallow with just a hint of incense hiding below the surface.

The vanilla was what made this fragrance really shine for me; this is the same spicy creaminess that I love in Shalimar.  Comparing ingredients I realized that both perfumes carried vanilla, sandalwood, and citrus notes.  So no surprise that I absolutely adore this fragrance!

In closing, Pour Femme is surprisingly memorable. Personally I would only wear her at night during the winter-spring season but the opening notes makes it great for the summer also (if you are really into intense candy fragrances).  The sillage is quite strong, and longevity is very good. The vanilla spice gets even better with time; after an hour it transforms into a sheer silky version of itself. Very sensual and unique. ♥

 

Top Notes
Neroli/ Raspberry /Mandarin Orange
 
Middle Notes
Jasmine/ Orange Blossom
 
Base Notes
Marshmallow/ Vanilla /Heliotrope/ Sandalwood

 

Untold / Elizabeth Arden

30 Sep
My goal this week was to experiment with different base pyramids, test out unusual compositions, and giving second chances to notes that initially repelled me. I was on a quest to discover why I disliked pear scents when combined with something nutty (like almonds), so I figured it would be best to combine an ingredient that I love (spices/patchouli) with pear to hopefully bring out its character.

That being said, today I received this gorgeous crystalline bottle of Untold by Elizabeth Arden. It was not love at first sniff, the pear and gardenia was overwhelming. I am extremely prejudiced of sugary fragrances, and the first layer of Untold reminded me heavily of Prada Candy. A fragrance so sweet that I imagined myself swimming in a sea of hot caramel and honey syrup; I am still recovering from that traumatic experience by the way lol.

However Untold had an unexpected surprise for me, after fifteen minutes the amber and patchouli mysteriously appeared and I went from being completely repelled to absolutely in love. The dry down transformed into something delicate and creamy…like a soft vanilla spice. I think pink pepper really complimented the patchouli in this fragrance; combined it gave the floral notes a much deserved lift that made it remarkably feminine and sensual.

Overall I feel Untold would be great for the office woman, or as a nightly routine. It is inoffensively gentle and not incessantly commanding like most fragrances in this category. I love that it isn’t aggressively sexy, vying instead to leave things to the imagination, very classy indeed.

Top Notes
Pink Pepper /Bergamot /Pear /Cassis
 
Middle Notes
Jasmine / Gardenia
 
Base Notes
Patchouli /Amber /Musk